Preparing the Matchbox End of the Radiator on the EF-10/20/40 for the #10 Lug
Whenever one terminates a wire in a lug etc, a weak point is created at the transition and continued flexing could cause the joint to fail. In addition, because we use a lug that is really made for a larger diameter wire (we use this lug because of its thicker material), there is also the possibility, that with long term strain, the wire could possibly pull out of the lug’s barrel. In order to avoid either of these failures, PAR has come up with the following method to attach the lug. We have never had a failure reported.
| STEP 1: Strip back 1/8″ of insulation. |
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STEP 2: Tin the exposed wire. |
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| STEP 3: Strip back an additional 1/2″ (5/8″ total exposed) |
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STEP 4: Use a pair of needle nose to bend the exposed wire back on itself. |
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| STEP 5: Quickly tin the entire exposed wire. |
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STEP 6: Solder the wire into the supplied #10 lug. This is most easily done by first filling the lug barrel with solder, and then inserting the bent over wire into the barrel. Be careful not to insert the wire so far that it impinges on the lug area that will be required to sandwich with the flat washers. |
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| STEP 7: If available, run a ring of hot melt glue around the wire/barrel interface. |
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STEP 8: Quickly push the 1/8″ shrink up to the interface and rotate it to evenly spread the glue. |
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| STEP 9: Slide the 1/4″ shrink over the barrel. exposed) |
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STEP 10: Shrink the entire assembly. As the assembly gets hot the glue will spread evenly under the shrink. |
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